ocean in the air and in my face

((This is part B of a post about my spring break! Want to start at the beginning? Scroll down!))

On our third day in Spain, we set off in Granada to see the Alhombra, which to no one's surprise, is an ancient Muslim city. But it was the coolest I've seen so I need to lose the hostility about seeing only Muslim historical sites. But I guess I can be a little upset because I thought Spain would have been more multi-cultural, but it was later a Catholic site so I'm not defending my frustration well. So the Alhombra was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. It is enormous and is positioned on a mountainside overlooking the entire city of Granada. It is beautiful, and includes palaces, gardens, towers, a military complex, and a center for water control. I focused less on listening to our tour and more on looking around because I've found that I benefit more from my own exploration.

the Alhombra

the palace

view over Granada

I haven't yet described how beautiful Granada was because I don't think I can. Its beauty was magnified for a visitor like me because I come from spending two months in Morocco. Don't get me wrong, I love it here, but Rabat is not known for its beauty. It was impeccably clean, there were garbage cans, the architecture was amazing, the air was crisp, the sun was warm, and the people were attractive. It was so amazing to cross streets using pedestrian crosswalks! I appreciate them so much now! It was also amazing because it was holy week when I was there. Families were dressed in their best clothes and they were out doing fun activities. I loved seeing the city united and enjoying Palm Sunday. We then saw the tomb of Ferdinand and Isabelle which was remarkable. The depictions of the Christian/Muslim conflict were so out of place for a holy place, but it just goes to show how desensitized to violence the people at that time had become. We walked around watching that and then went to a big Cathedral where they were preparing a processional for Palm Sunday. There were little girls dressed in all black wearing veils in mourning of Jesus' death and boys wearing costumes eerily similar to KKK costumes.

Cathedrale de l'Incarnation

girl in mourning 

It was particularly incredible experiencing this Christian tradition because it seemed nearly as pervasive as the Muslim everyday tradition in Morocco. But what seemed to be so amazing about Spain is the intense Catholic religion is entirely separated form politics. I had such an amazing time in Granada and hope to return someday to see more.

That night, we went to a few different tapas bars and stayed out pretty late along with the rest of the city. I really loved Spain and was not excited to leave to return to Morocco the next morning, but little did I know what  layahead of me in Essaouira and Taghazoute.

We traveled back to Morocco, which took about half a day and I went home, repacked and then stayed the night at a friend's apartment with 6 other friends who were continuing on spring break with me. We got an early start and took a four hour train to Marrakech where we then took a 5 hour bus to Essaouira, a beach town on the southern Atlantic coast. It was BEAUTIFUL. Seagulls flew through the air, men fished and searched for oysters, and the sun set on the water overlooking the city. 

Essaouira

We spent the night walking along the beach, eating seafood and listening to music at a rooftop restaurant/bar. It was very touristy and European, but the relaxed lifestyle there was a breath of fresh Moroccan air. We stayed at a really nice guest house in the medina and got an early start in the morning seeing the city. 

the fortress

We breezed through Essaouira like the warm ocean air and were on our way to our much awaited time at a surf camp in Taghazout. The bus ride was unlike any other I've ever taken. I wouldn't be surprised if the driver was clinically insane considering the way he accelerated as we approached edges of the cliffs. We were flirting with death with every meander of the road and I am fairly confident that each and every passenger bought a Sprite (because Ginger Ale doesn't exist in this country) and crackers too settle their stomach. I would do the drive 10x over to spend more time in Taghazout though. We approached the tiny town which sits on a cliff overlooking the beach and were so pleased and excited. But then we had to drive right through it because the bus driver refused to let us get out and made us continue another 20 minutes to Agadir, where we then had to take a bus right back to Taghazout...

Adventurekeys is the hostel we stayed at in Taghazout where we chose a package including room and board, breakfast, lunch, dinner, surf lessons and equipment for $40 a day. Is that a steal or is that not a steal? All of the workers were so awesome and chill and were there to make sure we were having the best time ever. We spent the days waking up at 8 for breakfast to be out and surfing by 9:30. The first day, I did the stereotypical movie scene surf lesson where you practice standing up on your board in the sand. And then I actually tried standing up in the water and I got up on my second try! It was so cool! It was so fun to surf and I definitely want to keep learning in Charleston where there are sharks.

friends on a beach

the most beautiful place in Morocco, Taghazout

At the hostel with us were groups of Germans, Austrians, American expats, Danish and Moroccans. We all got along so well, spending the days hanging out on the terrace talking and the nights having drinks with our sunburns. We went out one night in Agadir which was a great time and then one day, potentially one of the best days of my life, we went to Paradise Valley. 

As if Taghazout wasn't good enough, we drove about 45 minutes away to Paradise Valley, an oasis between mountains for an afternoon of hiking, cliff diving and relaxing in the sun. Apparently hippies originally found the spot but I can't believe that Moroccans weren't there since the beginning of time. There were pools of fresh water in rocks and cliffs for jumping and dense vegetation and it was just amazing. I tried to be brave and jump off of a 40 foot cliff like everyone else but I had a panic attack as a reached the top and couldn't breathe, so I let myself off the hook. It was an amazing afternoon.

cliff jumping in Paradise Valley

It was such a relaxing trip and it came at a great time. I really enjoyed meeting so many new people from across the world and loved seeing a very different part of Morocco. When it came time to head home, we found that there were no seats left on the buses to Marrakech, so very very unfortunately we were obligated to stay another night :) But then we actually came home to Rabat.

I was so happy to see Naima, Abdullah and Salma. I truly miss them when I'm gone and they miss me too. They decorated my room in American flags and left cookies on my bed for my arrival. Naima said at dinner the other night that she thinks of my like a daughter like Salma and she feels me in her heart when I'm gone. She has begun talking quite a bit about returning after I leave Morocco for the first time and she really hopes one day I will come back with my mom (hey mom, that's a hint!). 

My spring break: was refreshing and relaxing. Let me see a more mellow part of Morocco. Took me out of the urban, busy, street harassment culture for shwiya. 

About street harassment, I realize I haven't really talked about that yet. It sucks. It's awful. It makes me feel like in going about my every tasks, I am doing something gravely wrong and I should be back in the house. Men stare, glare, gaze, eye me up and down, lick their lips, point, touch, whisper, whistle, talk and yell. It is exhausting. I have learned the easiest way to avoid more attention is to look down, as if I'm inferior, as if they've won. So some days I wear my sunglasses and I say "fuck you!" under them with my eyes (I just spent five or so minutes wondering whether I should or shouldn't use that word but I decided this is my blog and these are my feelings and that's exactly what I say when I feel pushed to my limit. Sorry if it offends you). And I listen to my iPod when I walk so I don't have to hear the disgusting things they say. It is absolutely tiring. It's not even the worst when I go running, which is usually the only time I encounter street harassment from men in the US. Harassment will be the thing I miss the least about Morocco. You can count on that. 

Well it's another weekend. Tomorrow I am going with a group of IES students to an orphanage called Dar Lkbira in Kinitrea, about 20 minutes away. We are having an "American Day". At first I was greatly opposed to the idea. I felt it was another way American's push our culture on the world. I also thought about Moroccans coming to American and having a Moroccan day without being asked to and I couldn't quite find the scenario in which I thought it might happen. But nevertheless, when I heard the kids were excited about it, I decided I'd participate. We are going to teach some basic American games, like four square and abbreviated football, have American snacks, dirt cups (my idea, not bragging) and sing songs. I'm pretty excited but I'm expecting a language issue. Insha'allah it all works well!