Tuesday, March 20, 2012

le sable et le soleil

The Sahara Desert:

  • Sahara actually means 'desert' in Arabic, so for all these years you've really been saying, "desert desert"
  • it is the second largest desert on the planet, next to Antarctica
  • it accounts for approximately 8% of the world's land area and is still growing!
  • the daily temperature can range from -.5 Celsius - 37.5 Celsius, dependent upon whether the sun is present

We left Friday morning at 7AM for a 10 hour drive. Along the way, we passed the biggest oasis in the world as well as a region in the Atlas mountains where a small group of Barbary macaques still live. We arrived in Erfoud to stay at the most amazing hotel in the middle of a desert that I have ever seen (I have never seen any others BUT that should not invalidate my aforementioned statement). I never took the time to think about the kind of hotel we might stay in but if I had, my expectations would have been blown out of the water. Hotel Xaluka was paradise in the desert. We were greeted by Amazight, the politically correct term for Berber, dancers and musicians. 

In all situations where entertainment is provided, they tend to
grab a student or two from our group to dance with them.
(it never gets less awkward)

5-star accommodations. If you're ever planning a trip 
to the Sahara, check out Hotel Xaluka. 

After a great night in Erfoud, we left in 4x4s at 9:30AM to tour a ksar in Rissaani. A ksar is a "fortified village" or also, it can be translated as "castle". Most ksars consist of attached housing, a mosque, a bath, ovens and shops. We then got back in the 4x4s for a more exciting leg of the drive to Cafe Tisardmine, which is advertised as an artisan retreat. There, we were able to talk with a local Amazight couple who had retired their nomadic way of life due to old age. The woman had given birth to 12 children, 9 surviving. Our director, Si Baghdadi, translated their Berber for us to understand, and we discussed topics such as birth ceremonies, death ceremonies, how to treat illnesses while living as a nomad and how children receive an education. It was so interesting. 

Fatema wore traditional Amazight dress 
which is uniquely detailed with bright colors.

Fatema, Karen (cafe owner), and Moha, during our discussion in
their traditional nomad tent.

We then continued in our 4x4s to the dunes in Merzouga. The drive was crazy, mostly because our driver, Mohamed, wanted us to have the best time possible. We arrived at La Belle Etoile, a hotel of tents next to Saharan dunes, under the most awe-inspiring night sky I have ever seen. We settled into our tents, had some Berber whisky (tea), and then went to find our camels that would take us through the dunes. I have always had an irrational fear of camels, so I was hesitant at first, but I quickly got comfortable atop my new friend. Nothing is more awkward than when a camel stands up while you are sitting on top. They rear you all the way forward, all the way back and then all the way forward again. 


So besides the awkward camel mount, riding them out into the middle of nowhere was one of the coolest thing I've ever done. I am finding it hard to describe the feeling I had. There were fun moments where our guides pulled me down a dune, or when I let my feet to sink deeper and deeper into the sand, or when we called out to each other from a dune far away. But it was different. I felt that I had to sit down and reflect upon myself, the universe, my God and His creation, and how in my 21 years of life I am now finding myself here. I am so far from my family. My parents, my brother, my grandparents and my godmother are a world away, and sitting there in the Sahara, they felt even further. But I was growing as I sat there watching the sunset over the Sahara, and I was loving my world and my life and my everything. 



I woke up early Sunday morning to go back to the dunes on a camel and watch the sunrise. It was early but I'm really glad I did it. 


We then began our trip to the Middle Atlas Mountains to start heading in the direction of Rabat. We stopped halfway for the night in Midelt, where we stayed at another incredible hotel. I was exhausted and in dire need of a free afternoon, so I took the opportunity to nap. We enjoyed another great dinner with Berber music and dance. 

Overall, I had an amazing weekend and really appreciated all that I experienced. The opportunities in this world are limitless and I feel so encouraged and supported by my family to seek them. I am so lucky for that and it is actually making me miss them more right now. I've always loved my family. They mean everything to me, and I'm sad to say that it might have taken being so far removed from them to realize how special they are. But it is what it is, and I love them with my whole being. 






No comments:

Post a Comment